I'm not going to lie, I was very affected by the "Rachel" haircut when it first made an appearance in the late '90s. Of course, I begged my mom to bring me to the salon so I could get it cut into the iconic layered 'do. However, once I sat down in the stylist's chair, they would always tell me my hair was too fine and would fall flat.
So when the butterfly haircut — a new hair trend that consists of face-framing layers and was originally coined by celebrity hairstylist Sunnie Brook — went viral on TikTok, I thought this would be my one chance to finally get the Rachel in an elevated way tailored to my specific hair type. When I went to see Lindsay Victoria, master stylist and educational director at , I asked her to both keep my length and give me as much volume as possible.
Keep reading for tips on what to expect from the cut and how to style it based on your individual hair texture — plus photos of my own butterfly haircut.
What Is a Butterfly Haircut?
"A heavily layered '90s-inspired haircut, the butterfly cut consists of a more uniform layer and carved-out face framing, with the shortest layer starting anywhere between the cheekbone and below the jaw line," Victoria tells POPSUGAR. "The shape is typically more round, which allows the style to have a max amount of volume. This type of haircut has pushed the trend toward polished and refined with less of a messy undone style."
Since there are slight variations of the butterfly haircut, Victoria says it's best to go to the salon equipped with photos of the style and length you're after. "Based on what length you are currently at, face shape, texture, density, and curl pattern, ask your stylist what length the face-framing layers should be and what overall length would suit you best," she says. "Talk about your daily routine, including the products you use, to see if any adjustments need to be made in achieving this look. If you have a curl pattern and would like the option to wear it natural, let your stylist know so it is taken into consideration when designing the haircut for you."
How to Style a Butterfly Haircut
"Depending on your texture — fine, medium, or coarse — and your curl pattern, there can be technical adjustments made to customize a version of this style for you," Victoria says. "This haircut can be worn with natural texture as well. Similar to a blown-out style, the shape will be round and voluminous."
She explains that the best at-home tool for creating the butterfly effect is the Dyson Airwrap ($600)'s long barrel attachment, but it can also be achieved with a round brush or a medium to large curling iron. "Using your tool of choice, split your hair in half down the center back, curling each side in the same direction (toward or away from the face), and let it cool before brushing out the wave for a smooth polished finish," Victoria says. "Regardless if you are curling toward or away from the face, you want to curl the shortest front layer away from the face to create that signature butterfly wing."
When it comes to products, she says they'll really be determined by your hair texture. People with fine hair will want to look for products that are intended for volume and hold. "A root-lifting spray, mousse, styling foam, thickener, dry shampoo, and dry texture spray," Victoria says. "Stay away from oils and creams to not weigh down the hair." Medium textures will want a light blow-dry cream, volume spray or mousse, and a dry texture spray to finish. Coarse hair should look to a blow-dry cream, hair milk, or leave-in conditioner paired with a light hold product, finished with a light hair oil or styling cream.
My Butterfly Haircut Results
On the left, you'll see what the haircut looked like when I used a blow dryer and a 3/4-inch-barrel curling iron, and on the right is the cut when I let my hair air-dry. The butterfly haircut has definitely given my hair much more movement and volume, especially when I let my natural curl pattern do its thing. I'm a big fan of the longer face-framing layers that Victoria added in, which curl around nicely to get that iconic butterfly-wing flip.
Overall, it's been an extremely manageable style — I just use some texturizing cream or spray to keep it easy — that works both air-dried and blow-dried and gives that extra boost of volume to my thin hair without making it look stringy. In other words: it checks all my boxes.
FAQs
Butterfly haircuts are typically not considered the most flattering pick for thin hair because the wispy, feathery layers can make the hair look even more sparse.
Does the butterfly haircut suit everyone? ›
Who is the butterfly haircut best for? Brook suggests the butterfly cut if you're obsessed with short haircuts like bobs and lobs but the idea of a major chop terrifies you. While the cut can be tailored to any hair type, Brook says it looks best on those with natural texture.
What are the benefits of a butterfly haircut? ›
What are the benefits of the butterfly haircut?
- Distinctive Aesthetic: The butterfly haircut's unique and eye-catching silhouette sets it apart from more conventional hairstyles. ...
- Volume and Texture: ...
- Versatility: ...
- Nostalgia and Timelessness: ...
- Self-Expression: ...
- Modern Adaptations: ...
- Low Maintenance:
Choppy Pixie
Pixie cuts can actually make your thin hair appear thicker than it really is. Try one with choppy layers to add volume, and work in a light styling balm or paste-like Reverie's Rake Styling Balm ($36) to give your cut definition without weighing it down.
Which hair cut gives more volume for thin hair? ›
Having a haircut with a strong one-length – and especially above shoulder – will make hair look thicker,” he says. “If you have thin hair, I would recommend having mid length or shorter hair styles. The lob, the bob, the midi, and pixie or mixie work really well for making thin hair appear thicker,” says Jordanna.
What are the disadvantages of a butterfly cut? ›
The butterfly haircut works with all hair types, though natural, curly and wavy textures tend to work best due to the defined, layered nature of the style. However, when it comes to thin hair, you might want to steer away from this cut. Adding lots of layers to already thin hair can make it appear even thinner.
What face shape is best for a butterfly haircut? ›
The butterfly haircut is typically more flattering on oval and round faces due to its layers accentuating cheekbones and softening angles. But that doesn't mean there isn't a way to make it work on any face shape.
What face shape looks good with a butterfly haircut? ›
Which face shape suits the butterfly haircut?
- Oval-shaped faces: Almost all styles suit oval-shaped faces, and the butterfly cut is no exception. ...
- Square Face: Soft Layers soften the angular jawline of square faces, creating a more harmonious look.
Shaggy hairstyles for fine hair over 50 are the best option: they look both age-appropriate and youthful. Want to take a decade off your face? We`ve found absolutely genius shag variants for all hair lengths. Layering will finally add that desired body and movement to your fine locks, we swear!
What is the best haircut for a 65 year old woman with fine hair? ›
The layered short pixie haircut is a great choice for fine hair. Not only is it a classic, but it's also very easy to style, low maintenance, and can provide opportunities for added volume. Having the perfect approach of wash-and-wear, a layered pixie cut will help aging hair have more dimension.
Adding long layers to long, thin hair can help to give your clients hair some movement and texture. It is important to note that they should be soft layers just towards the bottom of the hair so that it doesn't make the hair look finer. Long layers can help keep thin or fine hair from falling flat.
What is the difference between a butterfly haircut and a wolf cut? ›
The Wolf Cut is similar to the Butterfly Cut, but with more layers. This haircut combines shorter, choppy layers with longer, shaggy sections to create carefree movement. It can be styled on the conservative side or worn carefree and wild!
Why the butterfly haircut is trending? ›
Trending upwards since summer 2022, the butterfly cut has cascading layers to give strands movement. “It's a fun cut to be able to fake shorter hairstyles, without cutting off all your length,” Spino says of the layer placement. Another benefit of the cut is it doesn't grow out awkwardly.
What is the difference between butterfly haircut and curtain bangs? ›
"The curtain cut brings the focus to the front, with attention given to the middle-parted bangs which blend into face-framing layers," he says. Highlighting the difference even further, Mikic adds, "Layers in a butterfly cut also turn away from the face rather than framing the face.
Does a butterfly haircut make your hair look thicker? ›
The Butterfly Cut also works for all hair lengths, from short pixie cuts to long flowing locks. For shorter hair, the cut can add volume and texture, making it appear fuller and more voluminous. For longer hair, the cut can help remove weight and add movement to prevent it from looking flat or lifeless.
Who should get the butterfly haircut? ›
Who should get a butterfly cut? The style is ideal for people wanting to create the illusion of fuller, healthier hair without sacrificing length. Hairstylist Ashley Lynn, in Charlotte, North Carolina notes that the butterfly cut also "creates volume and shape, while removing damage from every level."
What face shape is best for butterfly haircut? ›
The butterfly haircut is typically more flattering on oval and round faces due to its layers accentuating cheekbones and softening angles. But that doesn't mean there isn't a way to make it work on any face shape.
What face shape is a butterfly haircut? ›
Here's a quick guide: Round Face: The layered texture of the butterfly cut adds angle and lengthens the round face, creating a slimming effect. Oval-shaped faces: Almost all styles suit oval-shaped faces, and the butterfly cut is no exception. Enhances the natural balance of the face.
