The Power of In-House Historians: Shaping the Future of Watchmaking
In the heart of Paris, amidst the summer heat, a remarkable story unfolds. Emmanuel Breguet, a descendant of the renowned watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet, flips through ancient ledgers, uncovering a rich history that spans centuries. From Napoleon's travel clock to the Queen of Naples' wristwatch, these records tell a tale of royalty, revolution, and the evolution of watchmaking.
"The history of Breguet is a grand narrative, a history with a capital H," Emmanuel declares. But it's not just his lineage that sets him apart; it's his role as the guardian of this legacy, a face of the brand, and a pioneer in his own right.
While nearly every watch house now boasts a patrimony department, only a select few, like Breguet, have elevated these historians to stardom. These experts, with their charisma and expertise, bridge the gap between the past and the present, influencing everything from product design to corporate museums.
Christian Selmoni, the larger-than-life Heritage and Style Director at Vacheron Constantin, is a perfect example. With his impressive stature and impeccable style, he's a magnet for collectors and journalists alike. Selmoni's journey through various departments has equipped him with a wealth of knowledge and experience, making him an invaluable asset to the brand.
Pierre Rainero, a veteran at Cartier, echoes this sentiment. With over four decades at the house, he's witnessed the evolution of archiving, from microfilm to a team of nearly 80 experts. Rainero's work has been so impactful that he was awarded the prestigious Chevalier de l'ordre des Arts et des Lettres by France's Minister of Culture.
A new generation of historians, like Nicholas Biebuyck of TAG Heuer, is continuing this legacy. With his expertise in horology and the automotive industry, Biebuyck brings a fresh perspective and enthusiasm to the role. Silas Walton, founder of A Collected Man, praises Biebuyck for making heritage feel relevant and engaging.
Matthieu Sauret, the young Heritage Director at Jaeger-LeCoultre, has a deep passion for the brand's history. He believes that embracing heritage is crucial, as it connects the brand with collectors and adds value to their offerings. Sauret's work on the Collectibles program, a celebration of the company's history through vintage timepieces, is a testament to this philosophy.
However, the overlap between selling and collecting for a brand's archive can sometimes lead to ethical dilemmas. The Omega scandal, where former employees were accused of creating a fraudulent watch, served as a wake-up call for the industry. Brands like TAG Heuer and Jaeger-LeCoultre have since implemented stricter systems of checks and balances to protect their archives.
The role of heritage directors is a delicate balance. They must navigate the fine line between market perception and the authenticity of their brand's history. Michael Friedman, the former historian at Audemars Piguet, emphasizes the importance of a historic anchor in a brand's narrative. He believes that being a great historian is key to being a great futurist.
The surge in interest for vintage watches has left some brands struggling to find a balance between the past and the present. The role of a heritage director is still a relatively new concept in the luxury business, and many maisons are still figuring out how to utilize this position effectively.
Vacheron Constantin, under the leadership of Laurent Perves, has embraced the power of heritage. Perves engages directly with vintage collectors, and the brand's ambitious project to remake its original American 1921 watch showcases their commitment to authenticity and preservation.
As the secondary market gains prominence, knowledgeable heritage directors will become even more crucial for the survival of watch brands. Heritage has evolved from a marketing tool to a form of capital, influencing design, storytelling, and value. As Sauret puts it, "What you create today impacts tomorrow, and what you created in the past strongly influences your present."
In a world where history is often seen as a relic, these in-house historians are proving that it's a safeguard for the future, shaping the narrative and value of some of the world's most prestigious watch brands.
